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True skin-care enthusiasts will tell you that the secret to achieving smooth, even-toned, dewy skin lies in a 10-step Korean skin-care routine. A leader in beauty innovation, Korea continuously pushes the standard with new ingredients, formulas, and techniques.
The K-beauty influence on the U.S. is not new, but recently, more consumers are turning to Korea for best-in-class tips and tricks.
10-step Korean skin-care routine emphasizes hydration and mild exfoliation, resulting in the coveted glass skin.
Morning Step 1: Oil-Based or Balm Cleanser
According to celebrity esthetician and founder of Peach & Lily, Alicia Yoon, the first step in any 10-step Korean skincare routine is an oil cleanser. Oil-based impurities like excess sebum, makeup, and SPF are best removed with oil because like attracts like, a principle familiar to those who can remember their high school science class.
Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser
The second step is, you guessed it, another cleanser! Double-cleansing is essential in K-beauty routines, though its since been adopted in skin care routines all over, including Victoria Beckham’s. By following up with a water-based cleanser, you can properly remove water-based impurities like dirt, sweat, and grime. Yoon suggests opting for a low pH, sulfate-free, calming cleanser to give skin a gentle kickstart or choosing a treatment cleanser suited to your skin concern. However, if you have acne, she suggests using an acne-specific cleanser to deep cleanse down to the pores. Esthetician Mandy Epley recommends this step for the evening only, not as part of your morning routine.
Step 3: Exfoliator
Depending on your skin type and exfoliator, this might be a daily or weekly step—make sure to read the instructions on the label. Yoon explains that on the days you’re exfoliating, you should do so after cleansing.
Step 4: Toner
Next come the toners. While toners may have a negative connotation in your mind, nowadays there are many that aren’t harsh, stripping, or astringent, especially if you choose a K-beauty option. “Korean toners are incredibly hydrating, and their main job is to focus on balancing the skin, including the skin’s pH level,” says Yoon.
Step 5: Essence
Toners and essences may offer similar benefits, but they’re not exactly interchangeable. Yoon explains that the main difference lies in their primary functions: a toner helps balance the skin, while an essence floods it with hydration. If your toner is deeply hydrating, it can double as an essence. Depending on the essence, they may also contain more concentrated ingredients and benefits compared to toners. “Think of essences as hydrating elixirs that can also deliver lightweight treatment benefits,” says Yoon.
Step 6: Prescription Topicals
“If you are using any prescription topicals, you would typically apply them directly onto dry skin once everything is patted in, either right after cleansing or right after your toner and essence,” explains Yoon. Every prescription has its nuances, so check in with your doctor on where exactly this would fit into your routine.
Step 7: Treatments
The next step is your treatments: serums and ampoules. “Depending on the formula, the order might differ, but the general rule of thumb is light to heavy in texture to optimize absorbency,” says Yoon. You’ll want to choose a serum that either hydrates, brightens, firms, and/or calms to achieve luminous, smooth, clear skin. Ensure it can be easily paired with other treatments without concern.
Step 8: Eye Cream
Don’t forget eye creams! Yoon advises choosing one that suits your eye area and addresses specific concerns you’re targeting. The eye area is sensitive and prone to milia, so always make sure to patch test. “Remember to dab on the product rather than tugging and pulling,” she adds.
Step 9: Moisturizer
It’d be a crime to skip moisturizer, which is why this step comes last to seal it all in. According to Yoon, Korean skincare offers incredible textures and exceeds expectations with sensorial experiences. This is particularly true for Korean moisturizers, as the final step not only provides skin-care benefits but also significantly affects how your skin looks and feels after application.
10 AM: SPF
And in the mornings, the final step is SPF, rain or shine. “With the diverse and modern sun filters that can be used, Korean sunscreens are typically weightless, invisible, and feel more like a light moisturizer or soothing serum than the sunscreens we might be familiar with stateside,” says Yoon.
Evening Step 1: Oil Cleanser
No matter how much, or how little, you did during the day, an oil-based cleanser is essential. These cleansers effectively dissolve and draw out oil-based impurities, including SPF, makeup, and excess sebum. According to Epley, “During the day, oil residue and dead skin cells accumulate on your skin. The first step in a Korean skin-care routine is to remove this buildup. With clean skin, you create a blank canvas for the following steps to be most effective.”
Step 2: Water-based Cleanser
Double cleansing is a cornerstone of K-beauty. As Yoon explains, “A gentle, hydrating water-based cleanser as the second step removes all water-based impurities like dirt, grime, and sweat, without being harsh on the skin.”
Step 3: Exfoliation
On exfoliation days, Yoon says you should do so after cleansing. She emphasizes that balanced exfoliation is key, as overdoing it can cause more harm than good. There are different types of exfoliants—chemical, physical, and enzymatic—so choose one based on your skin’s tolerance. “Most people only need to exfoliate two or three times a week,” Epley advises
Step 4: Toner
Many Korean toners are hydrating, and many essences are pH-balanced—a combo of the two can be especially beneficial at night if you’re looking to boost hydration before bedtime. But rememeber, toners and essences are separate steps. For example, Yoon explains that if you’re using an exfoliating toner and not getting hydration from this step, incorporating a deeply hydrating essence can be a great way to replenish moisture, since it serves a different purpose than your toner.
Step 5: Essence
“Essences are meant to hydrate and are packed with antioxidants and vitamins to enhance overall skin health,” says Epley. They’re especially helpful in the winter when radiators blast heat as you sleep or when dry air depletes moisture from the skin.
Step 6: Prescription Topicals
“If you are using any prescription topicals, you would typically apply them directly onto dry skin once everything is patted in, either right after cleansing or right after your toner and essence,” explains Yoon. Every prescription has its nuances, so check in with your doctor on where exactly this would fit into your routine.
Step 7: Treatments
This step is all about addressing your unique skin concerns with targeted treatments, explains Yoon. There are many options, including ampoules and serums. “The difference is that ampoules are typically considered more concentrated than serums, but it really depends on the formula as some serums can also have very high concentrations of active ingredients,” says Yoon.
Step 8: Eye Cream
To put the beauty in beauty sleep, applying an eye cream before bed, especially a thicker, nighttime formula can make a marked difference. Many Korean eye creams now include retinol, which can complement your retinol serum or moisturizer.
Step 9: Moisturizer
No matter your skin type or the climate you’re in, a good moisturizer is essential to lock in all the previous steps and protect your skin barrier. There are many different types of moisturizers with various formats, benefits, and ingredients that can either target specific concerns or provide multiple benefits at once. “Finding the right one depends on your skin’s needs and the results you’re looking for,” adds Epley.
Step 10: Masks
This is a bonus step for nights when you have extra time or want to treat yourself. Masks are an incredibly diverse and fun category in Korean skincare. “Depending on the mask, its application might vary, but typically, they are used after cleansing and toning. What comes next is up to you: some prefer to complete their entire skin-care routine after masking, while others may simply want to lock in the benefits with a moisturizer,” says Yoon. Her motto: Have fun with your skincare, pay attention to your skin, and see what it needs.